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There are many tucked away, little known regions, just southwest of Bordeaux, that have been making terrific, authentic wines for centuries. Gaillac and Côtes du Tarn are two of them and finally, like their neighbours Madiran, Cahors, Jurançon and the like, their wines are gaining prominence. It's a cliché, but they do offer a real treasure chest of exciting, high quality, great value wines. Take Terre de Cocagne from a region that became famous (and rich) in the 13th century for a native plant, Isatis Tinctoria. Extract from its leaves was used to make the intense blue pastel colour. This white has a comparable flavour intensity. Brilliant lemon zest and grassy freshness. Ideal on its own, with seafood or noodles with tofu and aubergine.