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In Spain’s sun-baked La Mancha, the same families have tended small plots of old bush vines for centuries. Usually no more than a few widely spaced rows, handed down from one generation to the next. But with locals swapping country life for the city, these vines are in danger of being abandoned. Bodegas Fontana recognises the quality in the traditional bush vines and, as encouragement, the winemaker Tómas Buendía takes care to pay growers in the region a little more for their grapes. This way they carry on nurturing the precious organic vineyards and keep the ancient wine culture alive. Full of rich cherry, plum and blueberry with the spiced bramble character of the Syrah, this great value red is perfect for roast lamb or a summer barbecue.