Château de Birot 2007

While many of Italy’s famed red grapes (such as Sangiovese or Nebbiolo) are noted for acidity, which helps ageing, Montepulciano gives a soft, juicy and approachable wine, even when young. The Beaujolais of Italy, perhaps, and exactly the style enjoyed by the locals. Farinelli is made from hand-picked, richly concentrated grapes grown on 30 to 40-year-old vines high in the Abruzzo hills. What’s more, it’s declassified (without official DOC status), which means that although it cannnot be labelled as fancy DOC, it does come at a particularly pleasing low price. But it’s the flavour in the glass that matters, and we’re impressed by that too. This is a fine match with pesto pasta, a roasted vegetable lasagne or chicken – from roast to pie.