An early-Autumn box

Regular readers will know what treat it is for me when I get a mystery mixed box from the wine-subscription service Laithwaites. I never know in advance what’s coming, and the pick-and-mix selection always has something in there that I would never usually try, and often has wines that are completely new to me. The last box arrived just as I got back from a ‘field trip’ to the top of the South island, but the first wine put a smile on my dial, as Picpoul was a very trendy item on winelists and in conversations when I was away in the UK in 2024. A family member there works in the wine trade and ordered a couple of bottles on a night out - so this took my right back to that night out.

One of Laithwaites strengths is having the finger on the pulse of wine trends across the world, and giving you a chance to try things before they really emerge in New Zealand. And the prices are very keen - as well as a money-back guarantee. Check out my thoughts on the first half of this box - the rest will be online in the next week as well. Today it is four whites, a rosé, and three reds.

Vignobles Canet Picpoul de Pinet 2023 Picpoul, from the south of France, has really taken off in Europe - it was on many tables when I visited the UK last September. A light to mid-bodied wine, with a combination of gold and green aromas and flavours. It has lime, nectarine, grapefruit and green apple notes as well as a savoury edge of fennel and pea pod. A great aperitif wine, or with lighter dishes on your lunch or dinner table. 92pts

Marauding Vintners Ms Sauvignon 2023
Sourced from the Adelaide Hills in South Australia, this Sauvignon Blanc offers an alternative take on the flavours that New Zealander’s will be used to, with our own ‘Marlborough expression’ of this varietal. The tropical flavours are all there, but with the explosive green notes we’re used to dialled down to a crisp elegance. Good energy through the palate and plenty of zing that lasts through to a zesty, dry finish. 91pts

RedHeads Moonlighters White Blend 2022
This Australian white wine is a blend of un-named white varietals. If I had to guess, I’m going for Chardonnay and Viognier as key components - a mix that I have had before, and the combination richness, acidity and texture work very well together. Although a blend, it is relatively straightforward and mouthwatering, with generous citrus, stonefruit and spice flavours. Some cashew nut and lemon curd notes at the finish. 90pts

Trimboli Saverio Big Rivers Vermentino 2024
A single-vineyard wine, sourced from the Big Rivers region of New South Wales. Common in the south of France and in parts of Italy, Vermentino is a great wine to try if you love Sauvignon Blanc. Pink grapefruit, apple, white peach and a signature almond note carry through to the taste from the aromas. Bright - almost prickly - with acidity, but with a note of lemon oil and zest. A nice minerality through to the dry finish too. 91pts

Flor de San Martin ‘Garnacha Rosada’ Navarra Rosé 2023
A rosé-style wine from vineyards high in the mountains of the Navarra region - just over the French border in the north of Spain. Made from juicy Garnacha, it is a very crisp and bright style, bursting with summer berry and cherry fruits. A perfect coral pink colour, the plush fruit is balanced by some equally-summery fresh herbal flavours.

Way & Cat Shiraz 2023
A Shiraz compiled from “fine parcels of wine, individually sourced from various sites across South Australia” A broodingly dark purple colour in the glass. A bouquet of boysenberry, plum, dark chocolate, mulberry, mint and pomegranate. Sumptuously smooth into the palate, with a dry tickle of tannin and juicy acidity in equal parts. The plush fruit is king, and the finish is soft, jammy and sweetening.

Bartolomeo Lorenzi Rosso Verenese 2021
Made by Cantina di Negrar, the Italian ‘Winery of the Year’ in 2019, this has a cool, funky label and is a big step sidewards from the heavy Amarone-style wines of the region. Although a lighter weight (for an italian red), there’s plenty of juicy fruit to savour - black cherry, bramble, damson plum, with baking spice and bitter chocolate too. Quite agile through the palate, brimming with energy and then with a silky texture at the finish. 91pts

Pillastro Susumaniello 2022
A wine from the deep south of Italy, in Puglia. It is a classic example of the big-bodied wines of the region - think Primitivo and Negaromaro as neighbours. Dark flavours of plum, cherry, blackberry and rosehip jelly mix with vanilla and woodsmoke on the nose. Weighty, ripe and smooth-textured, it is fully-loaded with toasty spice and dense juice. Although you may think of rich italian wines as ‘winter wines’ - the ripe lushness is also quite summery, and goes well with an evening BBQ. 90pts

Moving onto the second half of the box. There are two whites - both fairly unusual varietals for these shores - and then five more reds across a range. Australia is well-represented. I’ve said before that i find the range from Laithwaites to be particularly strong on Aussie wines. But, as usual, I’m getting wines from just outside the mainstream for this tasting to be a bit of an adventure.

Steeple Block Semillon 2024
Australia does this varietal so well - which is good, as it’s practically unheard of here in NZ. This lively, juicy white comes from South Australia. Lemon, grapefruit, granny smith apple, greengage plum and a little baking spice. A pucker of crisp acidity guides the fruit, before a talc-like texture envelops the back of the palate. Dry, bright and youthful now, there’s everything in place to think it could age very well indeed if cellared. 91pts

Le Viti di Beatrice Gavi 2023
Although Piedmont in Italy gets plenty of attention for their reds, this white wine is crafted from Cortese grapes grown in the east of the region. A youthful, dry expression, with notes of apple, citrus, almond, hay and almond to the scent. A bit more body to the palate than the light bouquet suggests, there’s also a stony minerality that lasts into the polished, lengthy finish. A good alternative for customers who like a Pinot Gris.

Trentham Estate Pinot Noir 2022
From the Murray Darling region of New South Wales in Australia, and a winery that has celebrated its 30th Anniversary in recent years. Red cherry, plum, raspberry, liquorice, and a dusting of spice fills the bouquet. The plump fruit is silky, framed with french oak, adding a toast and more spiciness to the palate. A nibble of green, with herbs, nettle and peppercorn. Tannin is supple and confidently integrated. 90pts

Tenuta Fenice Nero D’Avola 2023
A red wine from Sicily - winemaker Dino Taschetta has resurrected his grandfather’s old vineyard that was abandoned after the ‘60s earthquake. A deep burgundy colour with flashes of magenta at the edges. A perfume that starts with an intro of blackberry, plum and cherry flavours, then a chorus of mocha, pepper and liquorice, finishing with a savoury earthiness. Composed and densely packed through the palate. Some crisp acidity, a fine line of tannin and a smoky frame of oak form the spine, showcasing the plush fruit. Finishes dry, spicy and long. 93pts

Angove Bin 4255 Barossa Shiraz 2020
If there was a referendum for Barossa’s most popular grape variety, Shiraz would probably win. You get a deep, dark colour, with equally bold and dark flavours. Boysenberry, mocha, doris plum, black pepper, cloves and violets in the perfume and spread through the palate. Sleek, smooth and rich. Well-balanced acidity, oak and tannin make this a great option for these Autumn evenings as Summer tries to hang on.

The Black Stump Durif-Shiraz 2024
Made by winemaking legend John Casella from South Eastern Australia fruit. Plum, bramble, mint, vanilla, pomegranate, star anise, and even some salami notes show in the bouquet. The palate has some signature Durif tannins, with savoury and black pepper/spice elements jostling for attention. At 14.5% alcohol by volume, this has weight and body, but with a smooth plushness that’s looking for some red meat to partner with for dinner. 90pts

The Black Pig Reserve McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
Boasting the classic aromas that you want to find from a South Australian Cabernet - blackcurrant, cherry, tobacco, menthol, plum and liquorice. Add in the signature chocolate note of McLaren Vale, and this wine is a classic example. Chewy, bold tannins hold and bolster the fruit, and the acidity gives an energetic bounce through the palate. Shape, structure and juicy fruit - it’s all there. 91pts